headers interior framing??

[johnnyprc]

wall by wall in the wall DBX, only lock the walls that have special condidions

And that is a good feature, but we should also be able to more specifically specify our framing methods. Without that ability there is no way I am going to change every opening etc to some custom config - simple not worth it on most my projects.

[kiwideziner]

or lock a wall such as existing before building framing. This will then not build framing in selected wall. Very handy for remodels.

[mkennedy]

nice, thanks. that seems -almost- as good as a DBX?
1- Frame walls
2- Identify special conditions.
3- Modify to suit.
4- Lock
5- Hope that tha's not the wall that's effected by the 11th hour revision

[lbuttery]

5- Hope that tha's not the wall that's effected by the 11th hour revision


Matt:

I agree

Chief's main selling point is that it is parametric driven

when I can't accomplish a task with DBX settings then
I usually have to rely on my parther

Lew

[alabamabob]

In the 80's I framed houses. I learned from watching others but I questioned why 2x8 or 2x10 headers were used over every exterior wall opening regardless of the width of the opening. I thought, "this couldn't be because all the designer wants is a uniform height of the top of all (exterior) openings?", but that was the case. Attention to insualtion and vapor barrier systems was becoming a big issue then, so framing was changed to allow for less lumber and more insulation. A patio door in a non-load bearing (curtain) exterior wall had no header, only 3 pcs of 2x4 above it. Since all exterior walls were 2x6, headers over openings were a sandwich made of 2x4, 6, 8 or 10, then foam insulation to make up for lost R value, and another 2x 8 or 10 to make the unit flush both sides. Rule of thumb for spans using Spruce/Pine/Fir, #1 construction grade, was 2pc 2x4 spanned up to 4', 2pc 2x6 spanned up to 6', etc.. The default specs in Chief add 2" to each of those rules, so Chief wants a double 2x6 to span a 4' wide opening. They don't specify species or grade from what I found, but I'm sure Douglas Fir is similar to Spruce/Pine/Fir back east. It might be stronger. That's a waste of insulation space in my experience. Of course on any project, we always check with the American Wood Council regarding spans.

[johnnyprc]

In the 80's I framed houses. I learned from watching others but I questioned why 2x8 or 2x10 headers were used over every exterior wall opening regardless of the width of the opening. I thought, "this couldn't be because all the designer wants is a uniform height of the top of all (exterior) openings?", but that was the case. Attention to insualtion and vapor barrier systems was becoming a big issue then, so framing was changed to allow for less lumber and more insulation. A patio door in a non-load bearing (curtain) exterior wall had no header, only 3 pcs of 2x4 above it. Since all exterior walls were 2x6, headers over openings were a sandwich made of 2x4, 6, 8 or 10, then foam insulation to make up for lost R value, and another 2x 8 or 10 to make the unit flush both sides. Rule of thumb for spans using Spruce/Pine/Fir, #1 construction grade, was 2pc 2x4 spanned up to 4', 2pc 2x6 spanned up to 6', etc.. The default specs in Chief add 2" to each of those rules, so Chief wants a double 2x6 to span a 4' wide opening. They don't specify species or grade from what I found, but I'm sure Douglas Fir is similar to Spruce/Pine/Fir back east. It might be stronger. That's a waste of insulation space in my experience. Of course on any project, we always check with the American Wood Council regarding spans.

The main reason I typically keep headers sizes standardized through a home is that the framers like having the consistent cut sizes throughout. The person who normally does pre-cutting on a job is the newbie laborer. Nearly every time I get cute with header sizing there is some mistake that gets caught in trim (not the best place to catch things). Since one of my primary goals is uniform header heights, I keep things as simple and straightforward as possible. Only for major spans or garage headers do I change header specs. I typically denote a 4x10 with a bottom trimmer - but I also use individual windows and not mulled units. The American Wood Council has a chart in the IBC/IRC for header spans - so that is prescriptive info.

I guess we all do things our own way depending on geographic standards. I'd like to be able to show my header detail in Chief - and right now that is not possible without editing every location.

[Allen42acj]

If you select the wall tool, you can shift select all the walls on a floor and lock them (Retain framing)..

[mkennedy]

Johny
I use a typical header size also, but....
If you want to use varying headers and or address different ceiling heights, maybe you should call out your trimmer heights?
In our area we use 4x12 headers with no cripples for 8' ceilings. Windows are just a little higher than doors and that's life in the Bay Area.
We can order 6'10" doors but not all vendors make them. Some of the sliding doors in stock at Lowes are actually a little less that 6'8" I think.
You might try a standard edtail that place the header against the top plate, regardelss of dimension, then float a lintel (2x4 on edge to set your door and window head heights?

[Joe Carrick]

From a labor standpoint it's considerably easier and less expensive (at least for 8' ceiling heights) to use a full height header than it is to cut and install cripple studs. Built-up Headers can be prefabricated and installed very fast.

[perryh]

I get beams bearing on door and window openings all the time, I can't use a standard header beam in those cases. Flexibility is a must. Adjust header sizes in those DBX's is really needed

[johnnyprc]

I get beams bearing on door and window openings all the time, I can't use a standard header beam in those cases. Flexibility is a must. Adjust header sizes in those DBX's is really needed

Agreed, that is another good reason why we need the quick flexibility for each wall/opening. The global frame concept is OK to start, but we need to go back into areas and have a method other than moving sticks around to specify alternative headers etc.

[rgfeher]

From a labor standpoint it's considerably easier and less expensive (at least for 8' ceiling heights) to use a full height header than it is to cut and install cripple studs. Built-up Headers can be prefabricated and installed very fast.

The carpenter side of me agrees with Joe - much quicker to prefab and install

[johnnyprc]

Can someone describe "prefab" of headers? We use prefab wall panels, and prefab steel assemblies, but I am unaware of exactly what a header prefab is. How can you prefab a 4x10 header?

[rgfeher]

Sorry - used the term loosely
What I meant by prefab is simply that all the headers are precut and assembled at a workstation
Process is quick assembly-line type work when dealing with full height headers

[johnnyprc]

Sorry - used the term loosely
What I meant by prefab is simply that all the headers are precut and assembled at a workstation
Process is quick assembly-line type work when dealing with full height headers

OK, that makes more sense to me. Yes, that is what I am talking about too - all uniform sizes (materials) so the guy cutting can just make and number the headers.

Just now I did a search, and there are prefab headers with insulation sandwiched between wood/steel/etc. I've see this before, but never spec'd it. I thought maybe that was what you guys were talking about.