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Thread: Score lines in stucco or eifs
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01-08-2010, 04:16 PM #16
Okay, dowqn and dirty with molding, 3d moldings for the verticals and moldings for the horizontal, edit at doors etc.
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01-08-2010, 08:09 PM #17
horiz and vert
Here ya go
all polyline solid work, but could do wit cab ff$D or molding polylines
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01-09-2010, 08:16 AM #18
I've seen plenty of EIFS, residential and commercial, . . .
. . . and while there are control joints evident in the exterior cladding "panels," they are not that frequent or evident.
Jim Lynch has shown you that they can in fact be modeled, but you are in for a lot of work to do the polyline solid work on elevations, just so that you have a true 3D representation of this in a model.
Go to the Sto and Parex and Dryvit websites, really explore the sites to see as many of the job photos as you can, and you will see only a small number of these joints. It is not that jobs don't have them. Many do. But they are not a big feature of what one sees.
Particularly in residential work. Unless houses are really big, their elevations just aren't big enough to require these joints. I went through many dozens of house images to find one with joints showing, and I snipped it and attached it here. Sorry about the background . . . as I was sloppy with my screen capture.
If you architect clients are willing to pay for the time it takes to do the p'line solids on elevations so as to get some 3D realism, then by all means do the work. But if I was paying the bill, I would want to know what I am paying for.
If I listened to you telling me about what this would take, I might decide instead to have you model this for 3D without control joints, but then certainly show, in black and white 2D elevations that are part of the construction docs, the joints, plus their detail callouts, then CAD details to show everything about the joints.
But hey, what do I know?Gene Davis
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01-11-2010, 05:07 AM #19
Start with a newly created wall with all layer except your finished layer of ELF. Create a grid pattern in elevation view for all your joints, convert those lines to "V" grove (molding you created)to represent your joints. Prior to this offset all your lines that will become your expansion joints a given amount in both directions to be used for snap points. (distance depends on your joint profile). Put these lines on a separate layer. Couple of ways to do the next step, either clean up all the intersection and convert the newly created boxes to solids 1/8" thick or whatever your finished thickness is. Or using the lines offset as guide lines to drag solids/slabs/soffits whatever method you prefer, to fit each shape. Set your thickness and material accordingly, If they are well planned and layed out evenly, you should be able to copy quite quickly.
For windows and doors you'll have to use holes in solids. Or plan around the windows and doors.
See example , just a quickly but I think you'll get the idea. BTW, I didn't create a new wall, that's why there are 2 layers of stucco. Elininate the finished surface on your wall. The inserts will be your finish,Last edited by DougM; 01-11-2010 at 05:10 AM.
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01-11-2010, 08:21 AM #20
The aesthetic v joint will be horizontal. All they are using it for is to break up the massive eifs wall
Angela
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01-11-2010, 08:48 AM #21Registered User Promoted
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Angela:
In that case I would just make custom molding profiles, one that cuts at openings and one (or more if necessary) for above (and below) the openings. If the windows are the same height as the doors then you only need 2 moldings.
You can then create exterior molding polylines. For those at the openings you can break them and turn of the segments at the openings.Larry
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01-11-2010, 08:49 AM #22
sounds good. i will do that and see how it goes.
Angela
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01-11-2010, 09:26 AM #23Registered User Promoted
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I forgot to mention that if you set the height of the molding polyline the opening breaks are automatic...I think. Been a while since I have done this but it works. You just need to calculate the correct heights of the moldings and the correct offsets from the height of the molding polyline.
Larry
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No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be
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01-11-2010, 11:47 AM #24
how well do you think this will render? It is a HUGE building and I am going to be including the view of another building besides it and part of the parking lot. Would it show in rendering?
Angela
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01-11-2010, 12:09 PM #25
Before spending hours drawing.....I would find a building with a similar finish and with expansion joints Vertically and Horizontally. Stand back approximately the distance from the building and visualize intended rendering,and at times of day you plan in your renderings. My guess is you won't see any detail and would be a waste of time drawing it..(in detail that is)....not to say don't do anything, certainly you want to break up the massive wall areas, I don't think you will see any detail from what your telling us as to the size of the building, Unless you think it'll cast shadows Etc. Etc.
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01-11-2010, 02:30 PM #26Registered User Promoted
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It depends on how deep the v shapes are as they relate to the overall structure. The way I see it a quick view of the 3D model may be just what is needed to see if the grooves do what the architect intended. If not then they may need to look at alternatives that add more definition, say a channel shape perhaps with an accent color...or something. It should not take too long to create a profile and add that to a molding polyline. Then I would do a quick raytrace to see if it works or not.
Hope that helps.Larry
Lawrence C. Kumpost, Architect
No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be
stationery.
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01-11-2010, 02:41 PM #27Registered User Promoted
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Angela:
Can you provide a bit more detail?
Approximate size of structure?
Depth of EIFS system?
Intended shape of "V" (width at open side and depth)?Larry
Lawrence C. Kumpost, Architect
No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be
stationery.