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Thread: wall height vs ceiling height
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05-21-2009, 06:00 AM #31Registered Abuser Demoted
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Well, now I am sorry Jim. I didn't mean to drag you in on the negative side of this discussion. It just seemed you were more in favor of the existing situation. Manually dragging wall hgts many times causes odd behavior and results but is sometimes the only solution. Especially without having the ability to control each wall' s top and bottom without having to use a room hgt definition.
How do you tell a room that you want different wall tops and bottoms? It only accepts one room hgt. BradArchitect,NOT! (archnot@yahoo.com): Dell XPS 8300, i7-2600 3.40 GHZ Quad Core, Windows 7 Pro 64 bit, ATI-radeon HD 5700 1-gig(not by choice came with cpu), 8 GB RAM, 25" Hanspree HF 255 LCD Moniter- User since Chief '97(v6)-X4
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05-21-2009, 06:05 AM #32Registered Abuser Demoted
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Originally Posted by lbutteryArchitect,NOT! (archnot@yahoo.com): Dell XPS 8300, i7-2600 3.40 GHZ Quad Core, Windows 7 Pro 64 bit, ATI-radeon HD 5700 1-gig(not by choice came with cpu), 8 GB RAM, 25" Hanspree HF 255 LCD Moniter- User since Chief '97(v6)-X4
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05-21-2009, 06:16 AM #33
Brad:
Maybe so, I don't drag walls so ....
If a wall needs "fussin" I let my partner handle it
LewLew Buttery
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05-21-2009, 06:40 AM #34
Jim
When I did it in my test, the ''floor" ceiling height default was set at 15'.
That might make a difference over just the room default.
I have never had to do this condition before, so am open to what works better...........
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05-21-2009, 07:16 AM #35If a wall needs "fussin" I let my partner handle itD. Scott Hall (The Bridge Troll)
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05-21-2009, 07:20 AM #36
I sure with I had a partner.....
But I do have to pay him
LewLew Buttery
Castle Golden Design - "We make dreams visible"
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05-21-2009, 08:29 AM #37Jack Laughner
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When that wall top was dragged, that's when you, the "designer", took control of that wall from Chief. "Right or wrong", that wall is yours to deal w/ forevermore
Jim - If I "the designer" had control of the floor & ceiling heights (lockable) as needed I wouldnt have to wrestle with Chiefs idea of what to change and I would gladly live with my changes "forever".
JackJack Laughner
European Influence LLC
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05-21-2009, 02:35 PM #38
Your right Lew, and everyone else that thinks dragging a wall down Su#$%!S.
Thats why we need to be able to adjust wall heights ...if you need room definition, you don't use it, Not everybody works the same, those that would benifit from being able to control a wall height, great...those who wouldn't...don't use it...I can think of probably 50 things I don't use or think aren't needed in my line of drawings, you don't here me knocking them down cause I know they are there for someone. I'd be willing to bet if a survey was taken we could find some tool that no one uses, but it's there. Just like when I used AC a couple yrs ago, they say only 2% of the program is used by any one person, but it satisfies pretty much everyone. Thats why they call it open architecture.Doug Michel
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05-21-2009, 06:07 PM #39
How about this:
Create a wall type with all the layers you want, but create a unique framing layer that has a drywall texture.
Create another wall type with only one layer that is as thick as the previous wall we created. Use air gap as the material and set transparency to 100%
Draw as a pony wall, with the transparent wall on top. You will need to designate as wall butts other walls to remove the stripe up the connecting wall. Preset the pony wall heights before you do this.
If you are creating closed rooms with this (I'm not sure why you would) you will get a stripe along the ceiling. This can be removed by designating 'roof cuts wall at bottom' in the roof tab of the wall dbx. But this will remove base moulding from the wall, so some manual base moulding will need to be added.
You can frame this wall with the other walls, it works fine.Last edited by sherpa_jones; 05-21-2009 at 06:15 PM.
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