# of Top plates?

[sherpa_jones]

Hmm, I guess it is the drywaller's problem then, eh?

[Dave Pitman]

Hmm, I guess it is the drywaller's problem then, eh?

And I assure that you will pay extra for having that 1/8 shaved, except maybe right now in this economy.

[tompapa]

This is how it's done out here and in Hawaii. I haven't framed anywhere else.

As for twisting joists, you have to have blocking every eight feet. Well, not with the engineered stuff, which is all I use nowadays.

[tompapa]

Drywallers complain about nine foot ceilings because of the extra piece, I can only imagine how much noise they'd make about having to shave an eigth off.

[tompapa]

I mean "eighth".

[lbuttery]

Drywallers complain about nine foot ceilings


Hmmm, maybe someone should start a business making 9' and 10' pieces of drywall


Lew

[sherpa_jones]

This is how it's done out here and in Hawaii. I haven't framed anywhere else.

That is typical of our area too.

Lew,

Why not just hang a 4' x 9' sheet vertical? A lot less seams to tape anyway. But i think laying them horizontal is preferred as it adds some rigidity to the walls.

"And I assure that you will pay extra for having that 1/8 shaved, except maybe right now in this economy."

Not sure about that, if drywalling is charged by the board feet like it is here.

[Dave Pitman]

"Hmmm, maybe someone should start a business making 9' and 10' pieces of drywall "

Lew, they do make 54" wide wallboard for use on 9' walls. 5/8" is reealllly heavy.

"And I assure that you will pay extra for having that 1/8 shaved, except maybe right now in this economy."

"Not sure about that, if drywalling is charged by the board feet like it is here. "

This is not an assumption. Drywall contractors absolutely will charge more for things like this. Its only common sense really. You wouldn't charge the same to draw a 2000 sqft. storage garage that you would to draw a house. (Now I am assuming ) They may charge by the foot, but the footage price will be higher, and your paying for the scrap 1/8 footage too!

Tompapa's drawing is the way framing is done here also. No furring strips like Allen's. We do use resilient channel (RC-1) to fur ceilings, usually for a sound barrier.

[Allen42acj]

It is extra work putting up the strapping but I think it is worth it.
Might be because I am used to it..

[Raymond Rood]

The sheetrock companys around here carry sheetrock for 9" clg because they are so popular they come 4'-6" (54") works the same as 8' clg when framed with precut studs

[Ray C]

Not all but most jobs we'll cut the exterior and interior studs,,,, use blue board and plaster, and allmost alway two full sheets and a ripped pcs on the walls.

http://www.plansthatwork.com/Chief/frame.htm

goofing off monday,,, Ray

[tompapa]

Sheetrock is hung horizontally for structural reasons but also because vertical seams would really show. Hanging horizontally allows for staggering joints. Plus, they can use twelve footers which actually cuts down on joints. The filler piece in the middle of nine foot walls is treated like one big joint. I only use 5/8" on my jobs so weight would definitely be a non trivial issue with 4'6"x12' sheets.

I'm sure my guy's hangers would complain way more about having to shave 1/8" off a factory edge than popping in a piece to make up nine foot or more ceiling heights. The 1/8" thing would be a major pain in the butt.

[tompapa]

Boy, the furring strip route seems like a lot of extra work, not too mention material cost when you really stop and think about it.

[tompapa]

Plus, here in California it would eliminate the shear value of the sheetrock decoupling it from the frame like that. You don't see skip sheeting on roofs any more, for that very reason I assume. Speaking of structural stuff, where's Richard Morrison when you need him?

[Ray C]

Hi
You would be surprised how fast it goes up (coil guns). The 1x3 costs about 15 cents a lineal foot,,,, probably about $150 for a 3 bed ranch. Where interior walls will run perpendicular to the ceiling joist, a 1x8 rough spruce board is place. This gives a nailing surface for the wall and rock at the same time…. Also a surface to snap a line for the wall to follow,,,, straight is great!
All the wiring runs above the rock in the 3/4 space created by the strapping, none above in the ceiling (by code I believe?).
The layout for the strapping is 16” OC from the exterior walls and all the interior wall studs fall under the strapping or joist depending on the direction of the wall. Great for finding studs during trim out time. The butt joints of the rock always break on a strapping for 12” OC screws. Double strapping perimeter of rooms that will get crown molding (very helpful)

I’m no engineer, but,,, my guess is,,,, the strapping alone duplicates the shear value of rock directly to the joist,,, then add the rock, it’s got to be much stronger (me thinks) .

I would think without it (strapping), lumber shrinkage and screw holes developing over time must be a problem. No so with the above method.

Something else just came to mind. How do you folks keep exterior wall that run parallel to the joist straight prior to hanging the rock. We use what’s called a spring board or metal wall ties to hold them straight and remove them only after the strapping has been installed.

http://www.proctorp.com/wallproducts/wallbraces.html

Not much to do today, Ray