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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Close to Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    135

    deck rail outside deck

    Congrats to me!!! I'm finally working on x1. Had to get a different job to get it, but at least I have it.
    Now the learning curve....
    I'm designing a deck with a railing around it and find it disappointing to see the limits of the railing. From what I see, the railing (posts) must be on top of the deck. I would like the railing post to be bolted to the side of the rim joist so in reality the entire railing is not above the deck surface. Can anyone tell me if this is possible?
    Thanks,
    Mark
    Mark Sandsoy
    Mpls, MN
    CA X1

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    7,619
    Try making your deck as usual. Make the railing walls invisible. Now, place 4 more railing walls outside the 1st deck. Make one of the new walls have no room definition. Drag the new walls closer to the first deck. That might get you started.
    Tommy Blair
    Houston, TX.
    (713) 467-0579
    tblair55@sbcglobal.net
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mechanicsville VA
    Posts
    729
    polyline solids....... thats the only way i have ever done it with it looking clean and right. i do this all the time with aluminum newels and cable railing systems.
    Ric Howe
    President

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Close to Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    135
    Tommy,
    Your process seems to work to an extent. The railing is now outside the deck but the posts do not extend down below the top surface of the deck, so it appears to be houvering... I can place polyline solids below them to fill in, but if I'm going to that trouble, I might just as well make the entire rail out of polyline solids, like ecsurfer84 suggested (see below). Thanks for the suggestion.

    Ecsurfer84,
    I like your option because it allows me to make any design I want, although it's a lot of work to put each individual piece in. Time consuming, but worth it in the end. Thanks,
    Mark
    Mark Sandsoy
    Mpls, MN
    CA X1

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    7,619
    Mark, I didn't actually try it. I was just trying to think outside the box. Solids or slabs are a good alternative.
    Tommy Blair
    Houston, TX.
    (713) 467-0579
    tblair55@sbcglobal.net
    Avid Chief User V8-X5
    Lead Houston User's Group
    HP Dv7t Quad Edition Laptop
    W7 Home Premium, 64-Bit
    2nd Gen. Intel Quad Core i7-2720QM 2.2 GHz (turbo boost to 3.3 GHz)
    1GB Radeon HD 6770M GDDR5
    8GB DDR3 System Memory, 640GB 7200rpm Hard Drive
    (2) 2.0 ports, (2) 3.0 ports
    17.3" Monitor (1600x900)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brownsburg, Indiana
    Posts
    5,614
    Quote Originally Posted by marksandsoy
    although it's a lot of work to put each individual piece in. Time consuming, but worth it in the end. Thanks,
    Mark
    Are you taking advantage of either the transform/replicate tool or the multiple copy tool? There very powerfull tools once you get the hang of them.
    Allen Brown
    Indy Blueprints
    Residential & Commercial Designs & Drafting Service
    V8-X4, Specializing in Plan Completion, Problem solving, & Chief Architect Training.

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Portsmouth, NH; boston area
    Posts
    10,647
    Quote Originally Posted by Allen Brown
    Are you taking advantage of either the transform/replicate tool or the multiple copy tool? There very powerfull tools once you get the hang of them.

    Allen is correct. Multiple copy works on walls. It's very cool and useful in many situations, not just this one.

    I've put the Multiple Copy tool on a one-letter hotkey, and the Multiple Copy Interval tool on another. When layout out a house, it actually faster for me to hit M then N, enter the distance (like 12' for walls that will be 12' oc apart) click on the wall and drag until my new one appears.
    Wendy Lee Welton
    Lic: NH, ME, NY, MA, NCARB

    603-431-9559

    www.artformarchitecture.com
    www.artformhomeplans.com

    I wrote code in 1984 to make my Sinclair 100 - so I used to be a programmer! So I can say with authority how easy it is to program Chief features! ;-)

 

 

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