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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    16,533
    I have done some thing like this before..
    I would not recommend the other way,looks like a snow trap..
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    .........

    Allen Colburn Jr.
    Pascoag RI 02859
    Residential Design Drafting/Framer

    Drafter for:
    http://www.artformhomeplans.com/

    Chief Architect X4






  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Houston,Texas
    Posts
    10,154
    It can be stick framed the first way as well.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Mi - USA
    Posts
    49
    In a southern climate that might work. But in Milwaukee with the rain and snow, not a good idea....

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Houston,Texas
    Posts
    10,154
    I have yet to see a roof framed the second way.

    That would not be advised in a southern climate.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Cheney, Washington
    Posts
    1,556
    Chief draws it wrong, when your addition is wider than the existing, the new usually overframes the existing like this, I don;t really like this either, looks like an add on to me, I al;ways try and line up the ridges and make the roof pitch whatever it needs to be and keep the pitches the same if possible..
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    Last edited by slatta; 03-26-2007 at 06:28 AM.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    16,533
    What is the size of the 2 areas?And why are you stuck on trusses and the pitch?
    .........

    Allen Colburn Jr.
    Pascoag RI 02859
    Residential Design Drafting/Framer

    Drafter for:
    http://www.artformhomeplans.com/

    Chief Architect X4






  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Kamiah, Idaho
    Posts
    4,206
    Paul: Did you verify that the existing roof framing is sized to carry any additional structure overbuild loads and/or snow loads? If you haven't, that should be your first priority. If that part looks OK, then what Allen has shown with the "valley trusses" running up the existing roof plane (or manually build over the existing roof). If you don't want the ridge heights different, you may want to check with your truss builder about flatter pitches for roof and ceiling (e.g., 5:12 roof and 2.5:12 ceiling).
    Curt Johnson

    X5

    Puget Systems Custom Computer, Win 7 Pro 64-bit SP1, 3.3Ghz Intel Core i5 2500K Quad, 8 GB Kingston DDR3-1333 Ram, Intel X25-M 80 GB SSD App Drive, WD 500 GB Caviar Blue SATA 6 Gb/s Data Drive, EVGA GeForce GTX 550 Ti 1024MB VC, Antec 650W PS, Asus p8P67 Pro REV 3.0 Motherboard

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Largo, Florida
    Posts
    52
    Quote Originally Posted by Allen42acj
    What is the size of the 2 areas?And why are you stuck on trusses and the pitch?
    took a long time to ask the real question - size of existing (width & depth)
    size of proposed (offsets from existing corners?)

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    North Fort Myers, Florida
    Posts
    1,757
    Here is the foot print of the whole house.

    The old additon has 2x8 rafters on 16" centers.


    Paul


    Paul K. Traylor (Design Engineer )


    WoodArt Design and Drafting Service
    "Great Homes Come From Great Designs"

    pktraylor65@gmail.com
    North Fort Myers, Florida

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Cheney, Washington
    Posts
    1,556
    how about like this?
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  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lebanon, PA
    Posts
    3,069
    Paul. If you must go with a 6 pitch on the new part - you can overframe the new roof onto the existing roof and give a "nice" 2 pitch look on the existing....

    The attached image shows withj green - the trussed area, with brown the over-framed, and gray the existing. Also an elevation of the 'front' of the existing...

    The overframed part should be done manually not trusses - too many variables in the existing....
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    Last edited by ChiefChris; 03-26-2007 at 11:13 AM.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    16,533
    I hate trusses even more now..:mad:
    What a pain if your not used to them..
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    .........

    Allen Colburn Jr.
    Pascoag RI 02859
    Residential Design Drafting/Framer

    Drafter for:
    http://www.artformhomeplans.com/

    Chief Architect X4






  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    North Fort Myers, Florida
    Posts
    1,757
    Good Morning,

    After a lot of discussion the client wants the framing to look like post #15 above with one exception. He wants the ridge of the over roof to extend to the ridge of the existing structure.

    Ok, if that is what he wants? Then I tried to get the over roof ridge to go between the new and the old and as yet have not been able to do that.

    Not what?



    Paul
    Paul K. Traylor (Design Engineer )


    WoodArt Design and Drafting Service
    "Great Homes Come From Great Designs"

    pktraylor65@gmail.com
    North Fort Myers, Florida

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    16,533
    You need to angle the ridge
    .........

    Allen Colburn Jr.
    Pascoag RI 02859
    Residential Design Drafting/Framer

    Drafter for:
    http://www.artformhomeplans.com/

    Chief Architect X4






  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    North Fort Myers, Florida
    Posts
    1,757
    I started with the plan of the photo in post #15 and tried to adjust it to raise one end of the ridge to meet the existing ridge. Just could not get it.

    It appears that to tilt the ridge the only way is to place the roof planes at an angle to each other but at what angle?

    Stumped!!!


    Paul
    Paul K. Traylor (Design Engineer )


    WoodArt Design and Drafting Service
    "Great Homes Come From Great Designs"

    pktraylor65@gmail.com
    North Fort Myers, Florida

 

 

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