Floor framing with a ledger

[Allen42acj]

Dan,
Do you have metal bridging too?Need the twang to go with the squeak.
If you can get at the hangers,try decking glue around them,it might help.
Allen Colburn

[slatta]

the squeek is the secdondary reason for not using hangers, the primary concern is concrete wall height, it adds about a foot of unneeded wall, heres another option we have used.

i do not care for this detail but I have not heard of any problems either, probably just need to control drainage, have gutters etc..

[Allen42acj]

I thought you were doing an addition(foundation already there)
If it's new,just do a brick ledge on the inside.
Allen Colburn

[benmecham]

Okay,
I just talked with my local building department and got some answers --

Yes, the code is 6" earth-to-wood clearance with basically just the concrete touching dirt (that includes galvanized flashing.)

A brick ledge would work only if the remaining stem wall is 6" or more for the wall above to be supported. The problem with that is the brick ledge is too small if I go with 8" stem walls, so they would have to be thicker (something I would like to avoid)

So I drew it out the way he recommended -- he said to stick with that because it is to code and because most houses are done like that around here (and to help keep the inspectors happy). So here's my drawing (a modification of Neal's drawings). Tell me what you think, even though it looks like I'm probably stuck with it.

[Clicker]

I was a framer for 22 years, and one way we reduced hanger squeaking on floor joists was to line the hangers with roofing felt.

[Allen42acj]

If it was my house I would want the ledger in the cement,the form guys should be able to do it in the forms.
Just dont like the idea of the ledger hanging on cement,not sure how long the conectors will last.Lots of different opions on what the new PT . dose to metal.Still have hangers nailed into it but the load is carried better.
Allen Colburn

[frwillia]

Originally posted by benmecham
So here's my drawing (a modification of Neal's drawings). Tell me what you think,

Looks OK.

If it was me, I'd have also specified the joist hanger, the hanger fastening requirements, the ledger bolts (HD galvanized) size, stagger and OC spacing, minimum hold down embedment, and a continuous horizontal bar (size ?) in the wall 3" or 4" down from the top.

Fitch

[slatta]

be sure to have the engineer specify that stuff mentioned, as well as using the not shown furred out wall for bearing, usually in a basement we'll have 2 x 4 furring next tothe wall, this can be used for support as well

[kernsdan]

I just did an addition and my grade ended up 2" below the top of the foundation. I should of had a joist ledge. I figured the inspector would pass it if I used James Hardie 1" x 8" concrete band around the bottom with a drip cap and lap siding above. No way. He made me go down to the building dept and get a new design ok'd. This is what it turned out to be to get ok'd just for this job. Treated sill plate,treated rim joist, treated 1/2 cdx plywood from bottom of rim to the center of my bottom plate of the wall. Grace "Ice & Water" shield over all of this 6" below the top of the foundation. Then a piece of flashing so the bottom was 2" was below grade and the top was up 6" above grade. The flashing was to protect the ice & water if the home owner happened to be digging around there. Next time I'll put in a joist ledge. Then I used the concrete band all around the bottom