Wall Covering: Wainscot Wrap

[ebdesign]

Nice one, Dan. Talk about making things more complicated............

I doubt the base will wrap the sill of a window opening or a doorway w/ bottom raised off floor, though, or , for that matter, the jambs too. I'll check.
..................
Nope, doesn't do it.
Looks like we're back to molding polylines (3D) for now.

Jim

[ambrozac]

Thanks Dan. Very good. It made me think. If you need the baseboard also, create a Room Molding Polyline (make sure it's base) and keep adding whatever you need. This will wrap the jamb for all the mldgs assigned to it.

[Winans]

Thanks Guys,
but I'm still having trouble.

I had to step out of the conversation to measure for a new job, sorry to have a late response.

To answer the earlier question:
yes my casing was/is suppressed.

The molding polylines wrapped the best, but where I have cabinets it drops out.

Also I created my tub deck with pony walls because I could not customize a cabinet that would do the job correctly, so now the room moldings go up higher than that wall.

See the pic, any further suggestions would be appreciated.

[mcqueenhomes]

I make my tub decks with custom slabs in plan view.

[Winans]

I have a custom slab for the top of the deck, but what do you do for the sides? Do you use a vertical slab for the walls?

[Winans]

Ok Thanks, I fixed my tub deck with slabs as suggested.

but I don't get how to fix my wrapping at the windows and cabinets, Am I doing something wrong?

[Winans]

I've tried it as a molding p-line and a 3-d molding p-line.

[mcqueenhomes]

I would use wall coverings. Then I'd use a molding pline or slab to fix where the wall coverings won't go.

It's like painting a room: Get it as good as you can with the big brush then cut in with the little brush.

[VHampton]

That was brilliant.

Nice work Cliff.

[ambrozac]

Thank you VHampton. But I think I found a flaw with the picture I sent. I was testing for wrapping around door openings, which it does. However, when you come to a window you have problems. Seems it won't cut the mldg sometimes. I'll test as soon as I can and see if there is a way to do both, but I'm not too optimistic. This may be the fact that I was using the base mldg for the Room Mldg Polyline and base is usually not cut for windows, so the other mldgs assigned didn't cut. It seems like they did a few times, but I've got to check and see what's going on.

[DOFoote]

Now THAT'S thinking outside the box. I would never have thought to use a baseboard for something like that, but it works perfectly. Kudos, Jim!

Dale

[VHampton]

Cliff,

If you notice how the base board doesn't want to climb up the walls where cabinets are drawn....there may be a way to draw a base unit as if it were part of the window sill. This would stop the bottom sash from being overtaken by the detail.


Still that was very very clever.

Having to draw "wainscott" with appled panels is much more time consumptive than this new method.

[ambrozac]

Thanks VHampton. It does seem like there are possibilities by doing it this way. I'll try what you suggested. Had not thought of that. Thanks again.

[Allen Brown]

I used base that was 23" tall so it came to the bottom of the widows (chair rail is stopped by windows), and a combo of crown and chair rail down to top of base since the base is stopped by cabinets. It accomplishes most of the coverages issues, but it limits you if you want to add any additional moldings such as a different base. I supose you could use a 3d molding p-line at that point.

Allen

oops, it looks like I have some issues with the tile pattern lining up.

[Winans]

Thanks, You gave me an idea.

I switched my moldings around

I used
Crown molding for my chair rail
Chair rail for my wainscot
Base for my deco strip.

Still one small glitch, I wish you could stack moldings like you can with cabinets, this would be much easier.