Printable View
_______________________________________
The 1/8" accuracy doesn't exist in the field. The pencil the carpenters use to mark where stuff goes has got to be 1/8" thick just by itself.
_______________________________________
As the old adage goes...
"Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a chalk and cut it with an axe."
That is how all residential construction is done
Right on. The word 1/8" inch doesn't exist with framers. The word "plus" is used instead. Like to say 10 5/8" you would say 10 1/2 plus. I too have been watching the posts talking about 1/16 and 1/8 inch measurements. On all residential CDs I set my snap to 1" and produce well accepted drawings. In my shop it is all about producing CDs that are easy to build and cause the least amount of confusion in the field.
John
....until you get into lots of angles and curves. I make every effort to get my plans to the inch as well, but sometimes have to settle with 1/8" due to obvious angle and radius outcomes.
Yes, that is how I work too. I design for several builders in the area, each building 40 - 100 homes a year. They are after CDs that are easy to build. Very few of the plans I do for them have any fractions at all. They are not building cracker boxes either, most are 2800 - 3500 s.f. The builders are happy to have no fractions. They work out any rounding issues in the field, i.e. a window centered in a wall that has a dimension on one side that is +/-1" from the other side.
I had complaints with 1/16ths. I had complaints with the 1/8ths style supplied by CA so I went to the 1" grid as you describe and they are happy now.
You all are sooo correct. Even when you shoot a nail gun, you can move the stud or whatever 1/16". Framers are not really know to take their time measuring. I always feel that if you can keep an overall diminsion to a 1/4", you're doing okay (for framing).
Tommy